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Old 04-27-2012, 03:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denzien View Post
You probably don't have to change it yet, but it won't hurt anything but your wallet.

The synthetic was probably cleaning up all the crap left behind by the conventional oil. I would give it another few oil changes to be sure.

^^^This^^^

IMO, I'd stick to Mobil 1 or Castrol Full Synthetic.

If you go to changing your synthetic oil every 10K miles then I'd make sure to change the filter at every 5K miles and add approx 1/8 of a quart to make up the difference.

FYI, you can also send off a sample and have it tested to see if the oil is still good. It would give you a better idea when is the right time to change your oil. I think it cost like $25.

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Old 04-27-2012, 07:42 AM   #16
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Full Syn. oil = 10k miles...... Conv. oil = 3k-5k miles.......
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:49 AM   #17
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Now you guys got me thinking if I should change it now or let it go for a bit of time...
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:39 AM   #18
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What kind of filter did you use?
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:38 AM   #19
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K&n hp-1010
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:01 PM   #20
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Not familiar with the quality of K&N oil filters, but I'd wager it's at least better than Fram
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:14 PM   #21
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Man, don't waste a perfectly good sync oil. Long trip or highway miles is easy on your oil. The K&N filter is an excellent filter (~10k miles). If you ask the same question at Bobistheoilguy forum, they will tell you to wait till at least 7,500 miles on the oil.
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:53 PM   #22
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I am old school as well. Conventional oil, Castrol when I can, every 3,000 to 3,500 miles. I run my cars until they die. Have one Altima that my son is driving with probably just over 150,000 miles. Just gave my wife my other Altima with 205,000 miles.

Neither vehicle burns any oil and run as good as they ever did.

If you are going to use synthetic, then it would be best to have your oil tested as previously suggested.

As to Fram filters, they are what I have always used. Lots of people say they are cheap but have served me well. With that said, I have switched to Wix filters.
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:29 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daMixter View Post
I change about every 3000 miles- old school, I know. Are you anywhere near the Gulf Coast? Did the synthetic/regular mix Castrol last time because they were out of the regular 5-20. Plan on trading the 2010 Tacoma for a new one sometime around December. Is Toyota coming ouit with any major Tacoma restyle anytime soon?
Actually I moved to Lexington KY in 07. From what I've heard there should be some major changes in the 2014 model. The 12 got a facelift on the front bumper, and they put the 4runner sterring wheel in it, complete w/bluetooth. They also give you the option for the entune navigation.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:17 PM   #24
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My dad took a motor oil class when he was working with a Volvo truck dealership. Volvos guideline was they would cover under warranty mobil1 synthetic oil change with Mobil 1 filters for 15,000 miles. After repeated tests it was the clear cut best oil on the market.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:11 PM   #25
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Has anyone here ever had a vehicle break down because you didn't change the oil?
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:43 AM   #26
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Has anyone here ever had a vehicle break down because you didn't change the oil?
I have seen it happen but don't know if any of those people are SR members.

I've seen engines so heavily sludged that when you remove the valve cover sludge has built up so much it is like someone poured some type of casting agent into the engine. You could break off pieces and in the middle they would be dry. Really was quite amazing.These large pieces of sludge can break off and clog oil galleys,filters, and oil pump pick-ups resulting in low to no oil pressure. When synthetic oil first became common place to the general public it was not uncommon to see cars with heavy sludge build up to suffer oil system failures when switched to synthetic. The synthetic oil was highly detergent and would start to clean old sludge deposits out and in severe cases of heavily sludged engines larger pieces would dislodge and clog the oil pumps pick-up and oil filter.





I use only synthetic oils and lubricants in all my vehicles and extend the oil change interval to 10K miles with a filter change (and top off for oil lost when the filter is changed) every 5k miles. With some following caveats,

New vehicles I use whatever the manufacturer recommends and follow their change and use guidelines during engine break-in after which I change to synthetic.

Used vehicles with 50K+ miles that show signs of heavy sludging I use an engine flush followed by a change to synthetic with the routine mentioned below.

Other vehicles that don't fall into the above groups I switch to synthetic but change it and the filter every 3K miles for the first three intervals to allow any deposits left by conventional oils to be cleaned by the highly detergent synthetic and captured by the filter.

Another side note is that switching to synthetic on a used vehicle can cause engine seals to start to leak or leak more heavily and while this is true the synthetic did not damage the seals as many believe. The seals were already compromised but evidence of this was hidden because sludge had built up and prevented or slowed the leak. The new synthetic cleaned those deposits and reveled the problem but did not cause it.

I use the term sludge but it is really oil that has coked due to volatilization of light molecules found in conventional oil.

My experience with synthetic oils and automotive lubricants is limited to Mobile-1, Amsoil,Red Line, and Royal Purple.
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:03 AM   #27
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That 3,000 mile oil change thing was invented by oil change places. Newer cars, full synthetic should be every 10k miles or 8 months whichever comes first. Every manual for every vehicle is different, will say a different amount of miles between changes, but when you're paying $8-$10 dollars a quart it's for a reason. I drive my vehicles till the wheels fall off, I hate car notes. My current ride is a 2001 silverado ext cab, with 260,000 miles and I do almost 8k miles on conventional oil before I change it. Truck still drives and sounds like a new one.
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:42 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justdave View Post
I have seen it happen but don't know if any of those people are SR members.

I've seen engines so heavily sludged that when you remove the valve cover sludge has built up so much it is like someone poured some type of casting agent into the engine. You could break off pieces and in the middle they would be dry. Really was quite amazing.These large pieces of sludge can break off and clog oil galleys,filters, and oil pump pick-ups resulting in low to no oil pressure. When synthetic oil first became common place to the general public it was not uncommon to see cars with heavy sludge build up to suffer oil system failures when switched to synthetic. The synthetic oil was highly detergent and would start to clean old sludge deposits out and in severe cases of heavily sludged engines larger pieces would dislodge and clog the oil pumps pick-up and oil filter.





I use only synthetic oils and lubricants in all my vehicles and extend the oil change interval to 10K miles with a filter change (and top off for oil lost when the filter is changed) every 5k miles. With some following caveats,

New vehicles I use whatever the manufacturer recommends and follow their change and use guidelines during engine break-in after which I change to synthetic.

Used vehicles with 50K+ miles that show signs of heavy sludging I use an engine flush followed by a change to synthetic with the routine mentioned below.

Other vehicles that don't fall into the above groups I switch to synthetic but change it and the filter every 3K miles for the first three intervals to allow any deposits left by conventional oils to be cleaned by the highly detergent synthetic and captured by the filter.

Another side note is that switching to synthetic on a used vehicle can cause engine seals to start to leak or leak more heavily and while this is true the synthetic did not damage the seals as many believe. The seals were already compromised but evidence of this was hidden because sludge had built up and prevented or slowed the leak. The new synthetic cleaned those deposits and reveled the problem but did not cause it.

I use the term sludge but it is really oil that has coked due to volatilization of light molecules found in conventional oil.

My experience with synthetic oils and automotive lubricants is limited to Mobile-1, Amsoil,Red Line, and Royal Purple.

Outstanding!!!

One of my vehicles had 70K+ miles on it when I made the switch to synthetic. Had absolutely zero problems since the conversion, but I had previously changed the oil religiously every 3K miles.

To the OP:
Don't forget the importance of a quality Oil Filter. And just as important a quality Air Filter. Lots of people buy air filters that provide more air flow. IMO, its only logical to think that:

More air flow = Less filtration

You can figure the rest out
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