AH
fwiw, the rest of Italy talks mad **** about Napoli
any time I was 'discuss' traffic/driving in any other city, the reply was always 'you should see Napoli
I had just said that in my last post. When I was figuring out itinerary for Italy, my friend had sent me hers from when they went the year prior & that was the one place they said to skip and not even bother with.