Car repair DIY question (1 Viewer)

[SWJJ]

I think he drives a convertable seabring

 

[iHEARTbush]

Can anyone really make a comment before they even know what they're talking about? If you have to ask on a message board on how to change a part on a car that stops it, take it to a pro. Please. I drive public roads as well as you do. I could spout some bull**** or just play "Dale Gribble".

 

[Thorin]

What kind of car? Do you want my SS# too? D.o.b.? Checking account #?

Are you serious? Some models the rotors just slide off, some the hub has to come off. Are we talking about a BMW here (your avatar)?

 

[saintned]

It takes me 30min total to change out front brakes on my maxima. The pads are $40 from the Zone and I have everything else. Its always good to have tools on hand, but I am just a poor guy who would rather do his own work so he knows its done right. Mechanics are so sleezy out here.

Thanks a lot. What do you do for a living?

 

[robsmith32]

yep, the job of changing a rotor out depends immensily on the type of car it is..
also, assuming you're talking about the brake rotor, as you mention brake fluid.. but if it's the distributor's rotor, no need for jack stands. they'd actually make it more difficult.. lol
some rotors. use phillips head screws to mount on the hub assembly, most newer cars used sealed bearings, no need to pack unless they wear out and you replace with non-sealed type.
jack stands about 30 bucks.. generally, they charge 99 per axle for brakes. some more , some less, brake stop or brakes plus will go 99 for pads, and all but after having either of them work on my vehicles in the past, only for me to go behind them to fix the dang brakes.. um. they won't touch another vehicle of mine.

some calipers actually screw back in by turning the piston, rather easily might add,
brake clamp isn't exactly a c-clamp either. but similar and more fitting for the job if you dont' just screw it back in.
now if you've have some miles on this vehicle, you might want to go ahead and drain and purge out the old brake fluid to keep the calipers from sticking.
again, the type of car makes a huge difference on that job.
heck, if distributor rotor.. some dont' even have distributors anymore.

 

[Pure Energy]

What kind of car? Do you want my SS# too? D.o.b.? Checking account #?

This reminds me of my M-I-L. She doesn't have internet because she fears everyone will have access to her personal information.

 

[CT Saints Fan]

Yes, It is rear wheel drive. It's a 540i. And what I'm learning is that they don't use heavy components to try to maintain the balance and weight ratio. And the result is that it's pretty common to get a shimmy in the front end when applying the brakes from highway speed.

The rotors aren't that expensive ($60 a piece), so nearly every recommendation I've seen while searching around is that when you get this shimmy, it's easier to just change the rotors yourself instead of bringing them somewhere to be trued. I've also read somewhere that because of the amount of heat that the rotors have absorbed to be warped, they probably are going to warp again - even faster the next time.

My B-I-L rebuilds cars for fun, so I think I might check with him if he has some of the equipment I need. He's about 4 hours away, but we see them often enough that I can get some of the stuff. Or even better, I'll invite them to come visit and get his help.

 

[rpm28]

What kind of car? Do you want my SS# too? D.o.b.? Checking account #?

You are the one asking for help......right?

If you don't have a c-clamp, you can slip a socket inside the piston and compress with a big pair of water pump pliers. If replacing with new rotors, remember to wipe them off with carb cleaner or a suitable solvent, and last ,but not least.....brake fluid and paint do NOT get along well. Good luck.

 

[robsmith32]

You are the one asking for help......right?

If you don't have a c-clamp, you can slip a socket inside the piston and compress with a big pair of water pump pliers. If replacing with new rotors, remember to wipe them off with carb cleaner or a suitable solvent, and last ,but not least.....brake fluid and paint do NOT get along well. Good luck.

he doesn't have a c-clamp, i find it far fetched to have "water pump" pliers, considering i've never even heard of them..
channel locks? or is that what they're supposed to be? and we just know them as that like kind of like Vise Grips.

btw, channel lock makes a great tool kit.. their ratchet and sockets beat the crap out of the craftsmen brand one's i've used. right there with mac and snap on.
i've broken a craftsmen 3/8 - 1/4 adapter then turned around and got the bloomin bolt out with a 1/4 channel lock ratchet. blew my mind.

fwiw, you might look at Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels they have some great prices on brakes and customer feedback on the parts. Great for deciding which brakes/tires to use for certain kind of car.

 

[helofixer]

Water pump pliers are another name for channel lock or slip joint pliers.
Whenever I do rotors I clean repack the bearings and replace the grease seals.

Changing the rear grease seal on a hub is a piece of cake if you go that route. Using a pin punch and hammer you can knock the seal out and for a couple of bucks at any parts store repack the inner bearing and install the new grease seal. Make sure if you remove the hub and rotor as a set, retorque the axle nut and use a new cotter pin or locking device. Losing a wheel on the freeway would be teh suck.

Look in your owners manual for lug nut torque. Don't gorilla torque em on with an impact gun or you will never get em off on the side of the road. Use a torque wrench.

I have to modify a lot of tools for what I do for a living and will buy cheaper craftsman when I'm grinding on sockets or heat bending wrenches instead of ruining my Snap On or Macs. As for snapping adapters, that is merely using the wrong tool for the job. 1/4 inch drive just isn't made for high torque apps.

 

[robsmith32]

that was the kicker, it was a 1/4 drive ratchet that had not problem with it.. of course that same ratchet has snapped a few bolt heads. the bolts were 10mm and the 10mm that fit the 3/8 was being used already.

I think it was a steal for the set, got it at sams for 69.99 Craftsmen for same thing was 99. if not mistakened.

 

[Pure Energy]

Don't forget to check your bearings and hub assembly.

Here's a nice link about BMW's and brakes.

Most importantly: As soon as any problem is noticed, get it repaired immediately. Delaying brake repairs is extremely dangerous.
Overstressed rotors and drums can break. Brakes may be too worn or damaged to stop your BMW in an emergency.
Even if you manage to avoid physical harm, the longer you delay fixing brake problems, the more you increase the cost of doing so.
Badly worn, warped or overheated rotors can damage wheel bearings and the complete wheel hub assembly. These parts often cost as much or more than the brakes themselves.
Even if you like doing your own work, every few years your BMW brakes should be examined by a BMW professional. Checking brakes for "run-out", warping, wheel bearing play, proper proportioning balance, among others, are normally more involved than can be accomplished in your garage. This inspection can also uncover underlying problems that could eventually become costly or dangerous.

http://www.autohausaz.com/bmw-auto-parts/bmw-brakes.html

 

[mean machine]

Well, I could go buy all the stuff, but I've found that by the time I buy all the tools/equipment to do a job right, and the time I spend doing it, I could have just paid somebody else, who already has all that stuff, to do it in the first place.

Then I don't end up with tools/equipment I'll never need again, my kids are spared being exposed to language they are too young to hear, and I can spend more time practicing fading a 5-iron into a tight pin, no matter how many fingers I have.

Just because it is done by a professional doesn't mean that it will be done professionally. (I need to trademark that.)

I (sorta) learned how to work on cars because I couldn't afford to take mine to the shop. I also couldn't afford to buy the right tools, and that created a real pain in the ***.

I still do most of my own work, but now I usually have the right tool for the job. Much better.

You'll never be able to use a C-clamp or jack stands again?

 

[TheMike62987]

Well, I could go buy all the stuff, but I've found that by the time I buy all the tools/equipment to do a job right, and the time I spend doing it, I could have just paid somebody else, who already has all that stuff, to do it in the first place.

Then I don't end up with tools/equipment I'll never need again, my kids are spared being exposed to language they are too young to hear, and I can spend more time practicing fading a 5-iron into a tight pin, no matter how many fingers I have.

I have a mechanic, so I don't have to do it, but I would never bring my car to get the brakes done at any Midas type of place. I did that once when I was 16 with my Honda, and instead of the advertised $99.00 price, I ended up spending almost $600.00 because I was a stupid kid who didn't know that he was getting screwed royally.