Help to demystify tow vehicle ratings (1 Viewer)

RKNSaint

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Throwing out to you guys as I know many of you probably know this stuff very well. But, I am having a very hard time interpreting what all of the terms and numbers mean.

I want to determine if I can safely tow a trailer with a particular truck.

Truck:
Older F250 SD. 2005, crew cab, 4x4, 6L
GVWR 10000
RGAWR 6150

Trailer:
Gooseneck
Pin Weight 2500
Dry Weight 8500
Will have +2500 payload
11000 expected total trailer combined weight.
GTWR 14500 (so, ok with expected payload of trailer)

Per page 17 (actual page # on bottom right) https://www.rvsafety.com/images/pdf/FordTG2005.pdf I see 15400 lbs as max 5th wheel towing.

So, I think I am ok but not fully confident?? ETA -- I think my concern is with the rear axle load. ETA I found the curb weight Curb Weight - Rear2771 lbs . So I think 2771+2500 < 6150. Adding in fuel, payload I should just be ok. Is this correct???

Am I am making this out to be way more difficult that it is? Since it is a safety/life/death issue it sure seems this would be more straight forward!!

Thanks in advance.

Rock on...RKNSaint
 
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A great rule of thumb is making sure you have much more truck than you need.

Also, don't forget what it will take to stop that trailer you're towing.

I just bought a Ram 2500. According to the numbers, I can get a 5th wheel RV in the 15,700 lb range
Max payload 2,050 lbs.
But, I'll be buying an RV in the 8 - 10,000 lb range.

Safety first.

It looks like your setup will work to me.
 
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You're at the upper limits of the truck but should be fine. Don't expect a comfortable ride. If you were towing the trailer everyday I would get more truck but if it's for the occasional camping trip your good to go.
 
Looks like it should be good to go but make sure of your brakes and keep a constant watch on them. Also increase the 2 second rule of distance on a vehicle you are behind to 3-4 seconds. Hopefully the trailer has it's own brakes that will activate when the trucks do to help out.
 
I'm not really the right guy to ask, since my one towing experience was a near catastrophe..lol. But did I die? And I didn't calculate anything.

See if these links help.

Basically, make sure your vehicle, loaded with people and stuff can still handle the load you're towing.


https://www.readingbody.com/calculating-your-trucks-maximum-payload-and-towing-capacity/

To create a personalized towing capacity calculator, you need to know the GCVWR and the curb weight. Subtract the latter amount from the former to find the maximum towing capacity:

  • GCVWR – curb weight = maximum towing capacity
This calculation does not consider anything inside your truck other than full fluid levels. It does not account for passengers or cargo. If you want to find how much you can realistically tow, you need to subtract the amount of freight and passengers in the vehicle, too. The GCVWR includes both what you have inside the truck as well as what you carry behind it.

Use the formula to determine if you can carry the following gear and people in a truck with a curb weight of 6,000 pounds and a GCVWR of 15,000 pounds:

  • Three 150-pound passengers
  • A quarter-cord of firewood at 1,250 pounds
  • Tow a 2,800-pound car
  • With a 2,000-pound car trailer
The calculation for determining the towing capacity for a truck carrying the above gear requires you to subtract everything moved by the vehicle from the curb weight and the GCVWR:


  • GCVWR – curb weight – cargo – passengers ≥ total towing weight
  • 15,000 pounds – 6,000 pounds – 1,250 pounds – (3 people x 150 pounds each) = 7,300 pounds towing capacity
  • Car + trailer = total towing weight
  • 2,800 pounds + 2,000 pounds = 4,800 pounds total towed weight
Because the total towing weight of 4,800 pounds is less than the total towing capacity of 7,300 pounds, you can safely carry everything listed while still towing the car.
 
I'm not really the right guy to ask, since my one towing experience was a near catastrophe..lol. But did I die? And I didn't calculate anything.

See if these links help.

Basically, make sure your vehicle, loaded with people and stuff can still handle the load you're towing.


https://www.readingbody.com/calculating-your-trucks-maximum-payload-and-towing-capacity/
Thanks!
You can never have enough resources when it comes to this stuff.
 
On the topic of towing, check your trailer!

Over this past weekend I learned that on the tire sidewall there is a four digit code, wwyy, indicating the date of manufacture for the tire. ww is the week of the year (1-52) and yy are the last two digits of the year manufactured.... I was pulling a boat trailer and had one blowout (LOUD!) in early AM and a second one (LOUD!) on the way home! Thankfully it was a tandem axle and I was able to limp home on 3tires at <45mph. One had a code of 0309 and the other was 4310....ugh. I'll replace those two AND the other two, both in the ww15 timeframe.
 
Basically, make sure your vehicle, loaded with people and stuff can still handle the load you're towing.
I'll just add that wheelbase and frame of the towing vehicle can make a big difference. There are interactions which can cause oscillations. So stick with the manufacturer's guidance on the specific vehicle and not just the capacity of a similar engine/trans combo.

My 2 door Wrangler has the same engine and trans as the 4 door but it is rated at 2500#'s less for towing. My research says this is because the length of the vehicle can greatly impact the way the rig reacts to bumps and winds causing serious safety issues at speed when things start to interact.
 
Thanks guys for the responses. In addition to this plea for help, I had help in the Diesel Forum. Looks like I am going to be fine. The trailer is brand new - take delivery in 12 weeks. Probably upgrade tow vehicle in a few years.

I appreciate the input. This topic is surprisingly very complicated!!

Thanks again,
Steven
 
Thanks guys for the responses. In addition to this plea for help, I had help in the Diesel Forum. Looks like I am going to be fine. The trailer is brand new - take delivery in 12 weeks. Probably upgrade tow vehicle in a few years.

I appreciate the input. This topic is surprisingly very complicated!!

Thanks again,
Steven
Like someone else said earlier.....payload usually gives you trouble before anything else. More so on a 5th wheel or gooseneck. Payloads are also fluid because they change depending on how the truck is optioned all the way down to how many people you have in the truck. A single cab 2 wheel drive gas burner is going to have alot more payload than a 4x4 crew cab diesel.
 
Like someone else said earlier.....payload usually gives you trouble before anything else. More so on a 5th wheel or gooseneck. Payloads are also fluid because they change depending on how the truck is optioned all the way down to how many people you have in the truck. A single cab 2 wheel drive gas burner is going to have alot more payload than a 4x4 crew cab diesel.
Yep. I didn’t see payload numbers at the link he provided. The guide did mention payload but didn’t list those numbers. Today’s trucks can haul a heavier payload than and equivalent truck from 15 years ago. It’s worth noting that it’s possible to get a higher payload rating in some 1/2 ton pickups than in some 3/4 ton trucks. It all depends on options. The big diesel 4X4s with all the options can give up a lot of payload.
 
Your weights are fine. More important question is bumper pull or goose neck.

I hall cattle on a regular basis and I use a ram 3500. I was pulling 18000lbs a few weeks ago with my gooseneck and barely felt it. Bumper pull is a different story.
 

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