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[dtc]

Sue it takes a lot of patience! I did my kitchen a few years back and swore I'd near tackle a removal project again but here I am.

Here's an option that works if the paper is adhered to the wall solidly in the open areas. Where the edges are rolled up you can peel those back or the seams are noticeable then skim over them with sheetrock mud to fill in, once dry lightly sand smooth. Prime over the entire room with a Kilz oil based (no odor) primer, two coats minimum. I also thoroughly clean the walls with a mild soap and water solution before priming. Then use the paint of your choice. I've done a bedroom like this and you'd never know the walls had paper on them.

I was going to do the bathroom like this but got started peeling and was too far along to stop.

Drywall costs $8 per board. It costs about $22 per board to hang tape and finish it. That's $30 for every roughly 48 sq ft. Say 75c per foot including waste. A typical 8x5 bathroom with a shower at the end has roughly 150 sq ft of drywall when you consider a vanity, door and the bath tile surround.

Even if you pay double for the labor because it's a small job, It's a very inexpensive job and you won't be floating 3 coats to smooth the residual glue. You won't find that after you've floated it that now the mud won't stick to the old paper. You won't look back at having spent 2 weekends smoothing an unsmoothable surface.

Or not.

 

[Redfish]

you won't find that after you've floated it that now the mud won't stick to the old paper.

I did a bedroom that was wallpapered (paper was in good shape) and had a few areas that needed skimming over with sheetrock mud and had absolutely no issues with it not sticking and drying. Sanded down smoothly, gotta be lite handed in the process then applied 2 coats of Kilz oil based primer directly over the wallpaper. Finished in with 2 coats of Benjamin Moore Eggshell finish paint.

Been 3 years now and it looks as if the room never had paper on the walls.

 

[lforet2002]

I did a bedroom that was wallpapered (paper was in good shape) and had a few areas that needed skimming over with sheetrock mud and had absolutely no issues with it not sticking and drying. Sanded down smoothly, gotta be lite handed in the process then applied 2 coats of Kilz oil based primer directly over the wallpaper. Finished in with 2 coats of Benjamin Moore Eggshell finish paint.

Been 3 years now and it looks as if the room never had paper on the walls.

This is actually my professional advice..I do this stuff for a living and my experience is that vinegar, steam and diff work well but stubborn wallpaper is just that and no amount of those products will help.Anytime I do a wallpaper removal job I always recommend the paint over it process as directed above other wise I charge as time and material..

 

[Redfish]

The project as of now. Going to prime and paint ceiling today.

 

[dtc]

I did a bedroom that was wallpapered (paper was in good shape) and had a few areas that needed skimming over with sheetrock mud and had absolutely no issues with it not sticking and drying. Sanded down smoothly, gotta be lite handed in the process then applied 2 coats of Kilz oil based primer directly over the wallpaper. Finished in with 2 coats of Benjamin Moore Eggshell finish paint.

Been 3 years now and it looks as if the room never had paper on the walls.

This is actually my professional advice..I do this stuff for a living and my experience is that vinegar, steam and diff work well but stubborn wallpaper is just that and no amount of those products will help.Anytime I do a wallpaper removal job I always recommend the paint over it process as directed above other wise I charge as time and material..

Sometimes the weight of the paint and the moisture in the paint will cause the otherwise stuck like glue paper to start to release.

Sometimes the mud doesn't want to stick to certain types of paper and sometimes you won't find out until you've got it sanded, prepped, painted and then chunks start to come off at the seams.

If a client demands that we save walls instead of pulling down the drywall, it's time and materials only. Otherwise, I'm not doing it.

 

[Redfish]

I agree with you for sure and in no way would I recommended someone applying a Latex Kilz on top of the paper. In my situation I certainly didn't won't to be tearing out or putting up 1/4" Sheetrock over these walls since it would have meant one heck of a clean up job in the process. I've been able to contain this to the bathroom area only.

I've seen what your talking about but usually where the walls weren't prepped ahead of time and they had a Latex paint directly on the paper.

And I'll add that this finish job won't be 100% blemish free. No one around here sells the Kilz high build primer ...

I guess I should clarify too that I don't use Kilz, that name just stuck in my head, I use Zinsser 123 stuff.

 

[lforet2002]

Sometimes the weight of the paint and the moisture in the paint will cause the otherwise stuck like glue paper to start to release.

Sometimes the mud doesn't want to stick to certain types of paper and sometimes you won't find out until you've got it sanded, prepped, painted and then chunks start to come off at the seams.

If a client demands that we save walls instead of pulling down the drywall, it's time and materials only. Otherwise, I'm not doing it.

The glue will not reactivate if you use an oil base primer..Your not gonna be using large amounts of mud to hide the seems and the mud will stick to the primer..Or in the case that you really want to seal the paper there is a product called Guardz that does just that..Ive been in the painting, drywall, and wallpaper business for over 25 years and have never had a project like this fail on me yet..I did one for a client 7 years ago and just 2 weeks ago I repainted the same room for them, you would never know theres wallpaper there..You do know that drywall is wrapped with paper right??This stuff is all about preparation, if it fails then it was not prepped properly.