Ti Rider
Me Worry?
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1.) Never ignore rats signs in out buildings. I have a storage shed that I don't spend much time in. The previous owners stored pecans in the shed so it's always had a rodent problem. A few years ago I cleaned it thoroughly and baited it but the rats came back. Eventually the rats will spread into your house. Get them before they get in.
2.) Find and seal up their points of entry and exit. It can be anything from what looks exactly like the comic "mouse hole" in wood trim to a small hole (quarter size or so) in the eves and overhangs (rats are climbers so don't ignore anything high or low). Hardware cloth is an excellent covering and will prevent rats, squirrels, racoons, etc. from chewing through.
3.) Live traps don't work. Sure they sound great but all they do is provide a nice, well stocked feeding station for your disease ridden, home destroying foes.
4.) Do not use bait in your attic......the bait people will tell you "Oh no problem using it your attic, the rats consume the bait then are immediately driven outside to find a water source". Sure. The problem is not all them will make it out and the consequences are the smell of decaying flesh in your attic or walls. This was a hard lesson to learn.
5.) Glue traps, big glue traps from Ace Hardware (extra sticky) baited with a small piece of cooked bacon work. Some people claim these traps are cruel and inhumane. More cruel and inhumane than poisons that liquify their organs? More cruel and inhumane than snap traps that don't instantly kill the rodent but almost always pin it down like a glue trap? Glue traps are a quick,efficient, convenient, and sanitary way to eliminate a rodent problem.
6.) If you do go the snap trap route, leave them unsprung and baited for a few days to allow the rodent time to get used to feeding from them. Wear gloves when baiting them as well to keep the "human smell" to a minimum. When you see the trap's bait gone, rebait, and set the spring.
7.) Place traps in areas where they can be easily checked. You don't want to have to crawl through yards of insulation to check traps. Depending on the size of your opponents you also might need to staple the traps down. Larger vermin can drag traps for quite a ways. Once set check them every few days. Don't check them too often or the rodents won't come near them.
I hope this helps a few out there.
2.) Find and seal up their points of entry and exit. It can be anything from what looks exactly like the comic "mouse hole" in wood trim to a small hole (quarter size or so) in the eves and overhangs (rats are climbers so don't ignore anything high or low). Hardware cloth is an excellent covering and will prevent rats, squirrels, racoons, etc. from chewing through.
3.) Live traps don't work. Sure they sound great but all they do is provide a nice, well stocked feeding station for your disease ridden, home destroying foes.
4.) Do not use bait in your attic......the bait people will tell you "Oh no problem using it your attic, the rats consume the bait then are immediately driven outside to find a water source". Sure. The problem is not all them will make it out and the consequences are the smell of decaying flesh in your attic or walls. This was a hard lesson to learn.
5.) Glue traps, big glue traps from Ace Hardware (extra sticky) baited with a small piece of cooked bacon work. Some people claim these traps are cruel and inhumane. More cruel and inhumane than poisons that liquify their organs? More cruel and inhumane than snap traps that don't instantly kill the rodent but almost always pin it down like a glue trap? Glue traps are a quick,efficient, convenient, and sanitary way to eliminate a rodent problem.
6.) If you do go the snap trap route, leave them unsprung and baited for a few days to allow the rodent time to get used to feeding from them. Wear gloves when baiting them as well to keep the "human smell" to a minimum. When you see the trap's bait gone, rebait, and set the spring.
7.) Place traps in areas where they can be easily checked. You don't want to have to crawl through yards of insulation to check traps. Depending on the size of your opponents you also might need to staple the traps down. Larger vermin can drag traps for quite a ways. Once set check them every few days. Don't check them too often or the rodents won't come near them.
I hope this helps a few out there.
