Photos and photography thread (1 Viewer)

It's individual shots and the team photo. My experience with large groups is limited....I'll have to research it as you suggested. I assume a smaller aperature is necessary to get everyone in focus.

I'm staying tuned for printing options for non-professionals! :ezbill:

I have used Shutterfly for prints when I took photography classes freshman year. They came out pretty good. But haven't tried them in years. I would say maybe 6.3 would be a good aperture to get everyone in focus. Probably 7.1 to be safe.

I assume this will be during the day?
 
First test shot flying above the house:

<img src="http://www.severum.net/fi/17/dji_test_sunset.jpg" width="1024" />

Will take some getting used to, but it should be fun in the right spot and conditions.
 
Sorry to go O/T for a minute..

Severum, I am looking to spend a few days in/around ONP during the last week of March before jumping over to Vancouver Island to visit my in-laws. I know weather can be iffy then, (hurricane ridge might still have snow) but was looking for a couple of recommendations, if you have a minute, before I dive into Trip Advisor later this evening. Was thinking of focusing on west side - Lake Quinault area, Ruby Beach, Hoh Rainforest, etc. but open to anything right now. Thanks!
 
Sorry to go O/T for a minute..

Severum, I am looking to spend a few days in/around ONP during the last week of March before jumping over to Vancouver Island to visit my in-laws. I know weather can be iffy then, (hurricane ridge might still have snow) but was looking for a couple of recommendations, if you have a minute, before I dive into Trip Advisor later this evening. Was thinking of focusing on west side - Lake Quinault area, Ruby Beach, Hoh Rainforest, etc. but open to anything right now. Thanks!

Photo trip advice is definitely on topic.

Seems that lots of SR members are visiting Washington lately. Where are you going on Vancouver Island?

I've visited the Olympics, but never done a dedicated photo trip. I'd like to get out there again for some long exposures, astrophotography, elk shots, and drone video.

My first advice to anyone planning a photo trip to Washington is to purchase Photographing Washington by Greg Vaughn. It has 20 pages on the Olympic Peninsula and is definitely worth purchasing if you plan return visits. This is also a good blog guide from the author of The Photographer's Guide to Puget Sound and NW WA, which is also a decent book.

My second advice is to get rain gear for yourself and your camera when visiting outside of summer.

You seem to be on the right path already. I would focus on the Hoh Rainforest and whichever of the main beaches that strikes your fancy (all are nice). The Hoh should be nicely greened up and if you're lucky the elk might be out (usually around dawn). It's nice to visit and hike around the old growth regardless of photography.

All of the major beaches have ample photo opportunities provided the weather cooperates. The sea stacks with sunset or fog are the photo highlights here for me. Abstracts, long exposure, astrophotography, tide pools, and driftwood might be of interest as well. Keep tides in mind when planning any beach excursion.

The road to Hurricane Ridge may or may not be open. You can check with the NPS via phone or twitter, but it's probably good to avoid planning a trip around guaranteed access there. Sol Duc Falls on the way north is nice, but it would take several hours or drive/hike/photo and photography options are limited.

I haven't visited the Lake Quinalt area so can't offer pointers beyond what's available in books and online. I like to browse Flickr maps or Google Maps photos prior to visiting any area for an idea of what's there.

The foxes of San Juan Island are another option near Vancouver Island. I'd steer you towards there if you were coming a few weeks later since kits typically emerge in late March to early April. Adults should still be out hunting in March, but it can be harder to get close approaches.

Above all try to be weather flexible. Have a back up plan if it's blowing or socked in on the coast.
 
Just bought a used Canon 6d body from B&H. $1280. Can't really afford it but I need it.

Really wanted a 5D MkIII but I'm feeling pretty good about what I've read about this camera and how it fits my style. I trust B&H so I'm not too worried about buying used. I'll have to be satisfied with the glass I have for awhile. (a good while)
so i got my new camera, slapped my Tamron 18-270 on it and went out to take some great shots! That's when I discovered that little S behind the EF is pretty important.
efsIMG_8662.jpg


****!! Back to B&H. Got a pretty good deal on another Tamron (28-300). Got up Sat. AM and headed over to City Park and got some decent shots but they look a little soft to me. Not sure if it's the lens or me. I did use a tripod on some of them but they still seem a little soft. I really can't invest a lot of money on an expensive lens right now. Take a look and tell me what you think.

IMG_8707-XL.jpg

IMG_8827-XL.jpg

IMG_8759%20a-X2.jpg

And this is with a good bit of sharpening.
 
It's hard to judge sharpness with low resolution files. It seems like there might be some distortion, softness, and CA in some corners, but that's to be expected on a superzoom. Do you have unprocessed full size versions of those available? Are you shooting in RAW?

Tamron and Sigma have had quality control issues with some of their lenses. A quick search shows The Digital Picture received a bad copy of the Tamron 28-300mm. Mousing over the images at this page shows a big difference in quality.

If you want to test your results against TDP you could print this test chart and compare your results to theirs. Make sure to use similar settings, good lighting, and a tripod. Using a known good prime on the same test chart could also help.

It's also possible that the lens back and/or front focuses which can be mitigated with autofocus microadjustment. I used Reikan FoCal which automates the process, but there are DIY methods like the ruler test and printed targets. These are only for minor back and front focusing though and will not fix serious lens issues.

One of the negatives of FF is you are relying on every bit of glass. Lenses that might have been acceptable on a crop body can show more distortion and softness in the corners on a full frame body. You should at least get results comparable to the "good" lens test at TDP though.

I tend to favor smaller ranges in my lenses since they require less complex optics. Generally a 24-70 plus a 70-200 will give better results than a 24-200. Similarly, primes often give better results that zooms. That has to be weighed against total cost and convenience though.
 
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/severum/33137179596/in/dateposted-public/" title="Snowy Sunset"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3928/33137179596_f82122dcf5_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="Snowy Sunset"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Used 5 bracketed exposures merged in LR for this one. I should've reduced the lowest exposure a bit more, but bracketing definitely helps with the drone camera.
 
Does anyone have any advice for taking photos in rainy or overcast conditions? I'm going to be in Atlanta next weekend and was hoping to take some architecture / urban landscape shots but unless the forecast changes it's around a 50% chance of rain each day. As far as gear goes, I'm still using a Nikon D3400 with the kit lens.
 
Does anyone have any advice for taking photos in rainy or overcast conditions? I'm going to be in Atlanta next weekend and was hoping to take some architecture / urban landscape shots but unless the forecast changes it's around a 50% chance of rain each day. As far as gear goes, I'm still using a Nikon D3400 with the kit lens.

I frequently photograph wildlife in rainy conditions, but PNW rain and Atlanta rain are different animals.

I haven't seen much pure architecture photography during rain. Capturing people moving through a downpour could be interesting if you can find a busy area and sufficiently sheltered shooting position.

If it isn't pouring then wet roads provide great reflections for night shots. Overcast conditions provide soft light so that can be a positive unless you're hoping for blue skies.
 
It's been a while since I've posted anything so I thought I'd post some things I've taken since the season ended.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/149600575@N05/33065948805/in/dateposted-public/" title="Dark Storms"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2341/33065948805_144a320aa3_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Dark Storms"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/149600575@N05/33148130031/in/dateposted-public/lightbox/" title="DSC_0130"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2931/33148130031_f3dc925937_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="DSC_0130"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
I frequently photograph wildlife in rainy conditions, but PNW rain and Atlanta rain are different animals.

I haven't seen much pure architecture photography during rain. Capturing people moving through a downpour could be interesting if you can find a busy area and sufficiently sheltered shooting position.

If it isn't pouring then wet roads provide great reflections for night shots. Overcast conditions provide soft light so that can be a positive unless you're hoping for blue skies.

Thanks! Anything I should keep in mind when the sun isn't out? I'm mainly worried about what shutter speed I should maintain when I don't have a tripod and whether it'll be more difficult to focus in those conditions. I've read autofocus doesn't always work well when it's cloudy.
 
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/149600575@N05/32461341733/in/dateposted-public/lightbox/" title="DSC_0828-5"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3949/32461341733_06a294c5c5_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="DSC_0828-5"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/149600575@N05/32432968814/in/dateposted-public/lightbox/" title="DSC_0692-2"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3920/32432968814_51fbc13a4c_z.jpg" width="640" height="400" alt="DSC_0692-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Nice shots, I like to golden to blue hour lighting.

Thanks! Anything I should keep in mind when the sun isn't out? I'm mainly worried about what shutter speed I should maintain when I don't have a tripod and whether it'll be more difficult to focus in those conditions. I've read autofocus doesn't always work well when it's cloudy.

Most modern AF systems can handle all daytime conditions.

With good form you should be able to hand hold in heavy overcast conditions. That's especially true with wide angles which aren't as motion critical. Something like f/10 should be easy at ISO 400.

Night shots would be an issue without a tripod, you could bring a mini tripod and use that on other surfaces.
 

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